In Cologne, Indianapolis' Sister City, they call Karneval--the period between November 11 and Ash-Wednesday--the "Fifth Season of the Year." It begins on the 11th day of the 11th month at exactly 11 minutes past 11 o'clock in the morning. This is when the Karneval Honor Guard--at least in the Rhineland, in Cologne, Bonn or Mainz--marches up. The jesters are drawn into the street, where they have one day to revel in pleasant anticipation. Then it's over again for a while--but only for outsiders. In carnival clubs, street and neighborhood groups, there are now regular meetings and activities, as the preparations for "die tollen Tage," the crazy days, are in full swing.

After the official initiation in November, Karneval begins on New Year's Day or immediately following Twelfth Night (the Festival of the Three Kings or Magi, also called Epiphany), on January 6, and ends with Ash Wednesday, the first day of Lent. At those jolly-good-time parties, dances and balls, folks wear "Kappen" (fools caps) and often also masks. In each city a Prinz Karneval, referred to as "His Crazy Highness," is elected to head with his princess or other retinue a court of fools and lead the frolics. On Shrove Tuesday the crazy couple will move with their retinue into the Rathaus (City Hall) to govern until midnight, when the merrymaking and foolishness comes to a sudden halt, yielding to the observation of Lent.

The Karneval of Cologne has its roots in ancient times. Cologne, founded by the Romans in 38 B.C. was named Colonia Claudia Ara Agrippinensum, after Julia Agrippina, daughter of the Roman General Germanicus, who married Rome's Emperor Claudius. In A.D. 50 it became t he capital of a Roman province and grew into the largest city north of the Alps and a major place of pilgrimage. The gothic masterpiece, the Kölner Dom or cathedral, was begun in 1248 and completed 632 years later, in 1880. It was built to house a splendid shrine for the relics of the Magi, the Three Kings, who paid homage to the infant Jesus, and to accommodate the huge pilgrimages the relics brought.

The cultures that evolved in Cologne side by side, the Roman and the Germanic, laid down the roots of Karneval. Numerous features of Karneval such as the masks, fancy costumes, parades, floats, etc. were also part of the ancient Roman Saturnalia (in December) and Lupercalia festivities (in February). Blended with the Germanic peoples' rites of Spring, they became the foundation upon which the Christian Church laid new interpretation and symbolism.

The early Karneval celebrations in Cologne had been organized by craft guilds. From 1794 to 1800 during the revolutionary wars, Cologne was occupied by French troops, and celebrations were forbidden. When they were permitted again, Karneval degenerated rapidly into rowdyism and excessive vulgarity. In 1823, concerned citizens, mainly of the educated elite, formed Karneval societies for the purpose of creating a new image. The Romantic spirit of the times and renewed interest in classic Greece and Rome, provided inspiration for Karneval themes. A symbolic figure, "Prinz Karneval," assisted by two other picturesque figures, the "Kouml;lnische Bauer" (Cologne Peasant) and the "Kouml;lnische Jungfraü (Cologne Virgin, portrayed by a man) became the principals. The numerous independent parades of masked groups were combined into one big parade culminating in the "Prince's" float.

Organized by firmly established Karneval societies, independent groups, which sometimes competed with one another, it began to flourish. Elaborate gatherings were held for the preparations. From these gradually developed today's popular "Kappensitzungen" (fools' sessions), often shown on TV. The Cologne practice spread to other Rhenish cities, Mainz and Düsseldorf.

Since the occupation of the city by French troops in the beginning of the 19th century, people used Karneval as an outlet for their protests, cloaked in ironic wit. The political upheavals of the middle of the 19th century were often reflected in the celebration of Karneval. This led in several cities to the prohibition of parades, Karneval newspapers and societies, as these were seen as vehicles for expressing dangerous and revolutionary ideas of democracy. In those cities where Karneval was celebrated, it continued to have its ups and downs. During WWI and the depression, there were no official celebrations. In 1933 the State demanded that all events had to be interpreted in terms of its racial ideology. At the beginning of WWII, all Karneval activities stopped.

Today, "Karneval in Köln" is bigger, noisier and merrier than ever. The Rhenish Karneval traditions are shared with Mainz and Düsseldorf as well as the larger and smaller towns in the vicinity of Cologne. Along the Rhine every town has a "Prinz" and "Prinzessin" (prince and princess) who command a uniformed guard, the "Prinzengarde" (prince's garde), parades with brass bands, dancers, officers on horseback, musketeers and infantrymen, all dressed in 18th century costume. The reason for the military attire is found in the reaction against Napoleonic and Prussian troops who had occupied the area. The masks and costumes are determined by individual whim and the themes of floats are often satirical, even critical, of contemporary personalities and events, and they poke fun at the government and the military.

Before the season culminates in the Rose Monday Parade, there are balls, parties and the famous "Büttensitzungen." "Bütten" (barrel) speakers are expected to be hilariously funny, witty and clever. The speeches range from funny to satirical and highly political. The speakers enjoy "Narrenfreiheit" (fools' liberty), the license of a court jester who had the liberty to speak unpopular truths as long as they were cloaked into the forms of jokes. Such an evening is further enlivened by skits, dance entertainment, music, food and song.

Karneval is also the high season for "Tünnes und Schäl," two characters in the Laurel and Hardy tradition, who illustrate and poke fun of the good citizens of Cologne. Tünnes, somewhat simple and good natured, but no dummy, is dressed in casual and not necessarily matching attire, while Schäl, correct in derby hat and tie, displays proper, conforming respectability. Together they enliven Karneval events and festivities. Tünnes and Schäl jokes abound, often addressing, with humor, political and civic issues.

Since the Karneval season began in November, the "Elferrat" (Council of Eleven) together with other Karneval societies have planned the festivities that reach their climax in a huge Rose Monday parade with floats, representing satirical, political and traditional topics. Many months of parties and events by city carnival societies have built to this point.

The Rose Monday parade, as is the entire carnival season, is presided over by the "Dreigestirn" (the Triumpherate), Prinz Karneval, the Maiden (portrayed by a man) symbolizing the city of Cologne, the Bauer (farmer), representing the tradesmen and farmers who made Cologne great, and their entire court. These offices are highly coveted and usually go to prominent citizens since it is not inexpensive to be a member of the "Triumpherate."

The Rose Monday parade is the high point of Karneval. Beginning with the Weiberfastnacht (women's carnival) on Thursday more than 50 processions warmed up the city. Held separately on Sunday afternoon before the Rose Monday parade, they are often more original than the official parade. Several local Rose Monday parades were held in other parts of the city by the various "Viertel" (quarters) and the schools--the "Schull-and Veedelszöch."

The Dom provides an impressive backdrop to the parade, which is several miles long with uniformed contingents, brass bands, dancers and the famous floats, satirizing current politics with huge Papier-mache figures. The persons on the floats throw tons of "Kamelle" (candy) into the crowds who line the streets in the hundreds of thousands.

In the parade also march the "Kölsche Funke" (sparks) the "Prinzengarde" (prince's guard) created as a parody of the Prussian drill. Dressed in 18th century uniforms with red coats, white wigs and three-cornered hats, this drill team carries out some irreverent maneuvers, occasionally bending over and wagging their posteriors at authority. With them march the "Funken Mariechen" (Mary of the Sparks,) high stepping dancing majorettes, girls and women dressed in white wigs, three-pointed hats and red uniforms. On Karneval floats and during celebrations, they dance, do cartwheels, the splits and get lifted high by their partners. The performances of the Funken Mariechen have, over the years, led to a very specific and acrobatic dance form, and there are annual competitions held.

In the climactic end phase of the Karneval season, from Sunday to Tuesday, normal life in Cologne comes to a virtual standstill. The key to the city is taken away for the "drei tollen Tage" by Prinz Karneval. Shops, offices, and public buildings are closed.

On "Faschingsdienstag" (Shrove Tuesday) it all ends with the "Kehraus" (from auskehren, to sweep out) when, by the stroke of midnight, the merrymaking comes to an end. Crowds may gather to observe the burning of the spirit of Karneval in effigy. On Ash Wednesday begins the reflective period leading to Easter.

Because of the confluence of Karneval and the tourist trade, the Rhenish Karneval has become something of a "consumers' article" and is now a carefully planned and paid-for affair. Nevertheless, there is a good deal of original, creative input and work by the many Karneval societies.

"Kölsch" Karneval in the Cologne dialect:

Alaaf - Helau: originally the greeting of the City of Cologne in the Rhineland, it means "Lebe hoch" and has become a Karneval greeting.

Helau: general expression of cheer and joyfulness.

Koelle Alaaf: a "cheer to the City of Cologne."

Elf: oldest Cologne Karneval motto "Ey Lustig Fröhlich - ELF."

Jeck: person born in Cologne.

Imi: Not born in Cologne, but living there.

All others: "Fründe" (Freunde), "Jäste" (Gäste) or "Besök" (Besuch).

Fasteleer or Fastelofvend: Karneval in Cologne.

Wieverfastelovend: the first day of the women's carnival. Tie wearers beware for, according to custom, your tie can be be cut off.

Zoch: (from Zug) parade.

Fastelovendszoch: Rose Monday Parade.

Funken: Jeckengroups in uniforms.

Sitzung: meeting of Faschingsverein, where there is music, singing, dancing and Schunkeln.

Schunkeln: you link arms with the persons next to you and swing with the music.

Bütten: a barrel.

Büttensitzung: The main feature of a Büttensitzung is that a speaker literally stands inside of, and speaks from a barrel.

For information contact the Festkomitee Kölner Karneval
www.koelnerkarneval.de/home/home.html

German Holidays and Folk Customs, Kramer, Dieter, An Atlantik-Brücke Publication, 1986

"Cologne's Crazy Carnival," German Life, Feb./March 2000

Der Kölner Karneval im Spiegels des Jahres 1987, Festkomitee des Kölner Karnevals von 1823, Greven & Bechthold, Köln

In their flashy red and white uniforms (Cologne's colors) the "Rote Funken" are an integral part of Karneval, the period between Nov. 11 and Ash-Wednesday. The "Rote Funken" is the oldest and largest Carnival society in Cologne with about 500 male members and the "Funkenmariechen" (the dancing girl). She symbolizes the "Marketenderin" who mothered and entertained the soldiers. The dancing officer had been the former army doctor. Historical ties link the "Rote Funken" to the old city soldiers. When Cologne became a free city in the 1600s it needed its own "army" to guard the gates of the medieval city wall, collect taxes and provide a kind of police authority. Because of their red uniforms, the soldiers were called "Rote Funken." Their uniform has remained unchanged in all those years.

The activities of the "Rote Funken" are based on, and poking fun of, military tradition. The members of the corps are divided up into 4 companies. Each company has its own symbol, worn by the members on their swords. These symbols are a knitted sock, an onion, a spinning top and a champagne cork. The official language of the "Rote Funken" is "Kölsch," the local dialect. Every Funk has a Kölsch nickname, expressing a special characteristic or connection to his occupation.

In 1815, after Napoleon's defeat, the Prussians were in Cologne. But its citizens had no great love for them, and when their Carnival was reorganized in 1823, they formed a new group, wearing the uniforms of the former city soldiers and satirizing the stiff Prussian military. That was the birth of today's "Rote Funken." In 1998, they celebrated their 175th anniversary. Like the Cologne cathedral, the unique Rhine panorama, Eau de Cologne and Kölsch beer, they are a part of Cologne culture.

Ruth Reichmann
Max Kade German-American Center

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